Basics of Pattern Making

The development of a garment comprises of different process. Fit is the most important factor leading to the final acceptance or rejection of a garment. Fit must be designed into the original pattern through subtleties in the pattern that provide fullness unobtrusively at appropriate locations to accommodate body bulges in a flattering manner (Hudson). Good customized fit is dependent on the pattern drafting incorporating various shapes and proportions of the individual customer. With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, standardized patterns were essential to the success of ready-to-wear clothing.

Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure . Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment components (Cooklin).

A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth. With in this roughly cylindrical framework there are a series of secondary curves and bulges, which are of concern to the pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth into a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.

A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward).

Methods of Pattern Making

Pattern making involves three methods-

• Drafting
• Draping
• Flat paper patternmaking

Drafting: It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design patterns.

Draping: It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form, conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. This muslin is transferred to paper to be used as a final pattern (Armstrong). Ease allowances for movement are added to make the garment comfortable to wear. Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect of the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and sewn. However, it is more expensive and time consuming than flat pattern making.

Flat Pattern Making: It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or body form. A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward). Five basic pattern pieces are used for womens clothing. They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front and back with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently womens styles fluctuate frequently. These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions.

A basic sloper has no seam allowances, which facilitates its manipulations to various styles. It has no design interest, only construction lines are marked on it. It is necessary that the basic structure of a sloper should be such that adjustments can be introduced easily. For a good pattern making, accurate measurements are of utmost importance.

The flat patternmaking method is widely used in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate (Aldrich).

Pattern making in todays world

Pattern making today has become an easy job with the use of the computers. Now-a-days different softwares are available in the market to meet the needs of the manufacturers. The different softwares used are Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech , OptiTex etc. These softwares has made the job of the Pattern master easier. They have made the process of pattern making more economical and less time consuming.

Pattern-making softwares enables you to input your measurements and draft out a pattern. These softwares draft patterns to fit your measurements specifically, eliminating much fitting trial and error in the sewing room.

A pattern can be made from a 3D form in just a few steps by using these softwares. An individual's measurements are collected from 3D body scanner. The measurements are used to create a virtual 3D model of the individual's body. The 3D to 2D software allows the user to define a garment surface in relation to the 3D body model. Once the garment surface is defined, the application automatically unwraps and outputs a 2D flat pattern in .dxf format.

Colour Craze!!!

Colours are the phenomena of visual insight. One cannot hear, taste or feel the colour, the only way to recognize the colour is to see it. A colour is a means of nonverbal communication and says a lot more than you can ever imagine.Colour is a fundamental consideration in the design process. Colour can also affect someone's ability to concentrate or to focus well. Colour can also have an effect on the way someone appears to look in the clothing they wear. It is often the first element that is noticed about a design and influences how the garment or collection is perceived. Colour is often the starting point of the design process. Gender and personality are the most common factors for determining the type of colours a personwill wear. Males are typically dressed in dark colours such as blue, black, green, gray, red, and brown. These colours are usually worn in various shades but they still consist of these primary hues. Females typically wear lighter colours such as pink, yellow, cyan, lime green, orange, and peach. Women and girls also wear the darker colours that are normally associated with men but men normally do not wear lighter colours associated with women.

Colour also has an Impact on:

• Your apparent shape
• Your apparent weight
• Your apparent personality
• Your emotions

Psychological Properties:

The eleven basic colours have fundamental psychological properties that are universal, regardless of which particular shade, tone or tint of it you are using. Each of them has potentially positive or negative psychological effects and which of these effects is created depends on the relationships within colour combinations. Colours can warm up, cool down, make practical or impractical, create impact or camouflage. It has been determined by medical science that colour can influence the viewer's hormones, blood pressure and body temperature. Every colour is having a positive as well as negative effect; negative effect shows when it is mixed with lighter or darker shade). Colour can have a profound effect on one's mood as well as their level of energy. The psychological properties of the eleven basic colours are as follows:

RED-Physical

Positive: Physical courage, strength, warmth, energy, basic survival, stimulation, masculinity, excitement.

Negative: Demanding, aggression, strain.

BLUE- Intellectual

Positive: Intelligence, communication, trust, efficiency, modern, duty, logic, coolness, reflection, calm.

Negative: Coldness, reserve, lack of emotion, unfriendly.

YELLOW- Emotional

Positive: Optimism, confidence, self-esteem, emotional strength, friendliness, creativity.
Negative: Irrationality, fear, depression, Immaturity, anxiety, suicide

GREEN- Balance

Positive: Harmony, balance, refreshment, universal love, rest, renewal, reassurance, environmental awareness, peace symmetry.

Negative: Boredom, heavy, stagnant, blandness.

VIOLET- Spiritual

Positive: Spiritual awareness, containment, vision, luxury, authenticity, truth, quality.
Negative: Introversion, decadent, suppression, inferior.

PINK-

Positive: Physical tranquillity, nurture, warmth, femininity, love, sexuality, survival of the species.
Negative: Inhibition, emasculation, physical weakness.

GREY-

Positive: Neutral

Negative: Lack of confidence, dampness, depression, lack of energy.

BLACK-

Positive: Sophisticated, glamour, secure, emotional safety, efficiency.

Negative: Domination, coldness, menacing, heavy, cruelty

WHITE-

Positive: Hygiene, sterility, clarity, purity, cleanness, simplicity, sophistication, efficiency.

Negative: Sterile, elitist, coldness, barriers, unfriendliness.

BROWN-

Positive: Serious, warmth, Nature, earthiness, reliable, support.

Negative: humourless, heavy, lack of sophistication.

Latest Trends in Jackets for Men and Women

Men wardrobes the most special pieces of cloths are there jackets, same as women love to have small trench coats or cardigans in there wardrobes, and Jacket is for the men's. Collection of good jacket always help you in stepping forward to dress up in the best possible way. Jackets are the best addition for means clothing whether the climate is warm in summer or cold in winters. There is lots of option available to choose while buying a jacket from a designer to a cheap one. Below is the best fashion for men that will be available for the coming year of fashion. To now well about the entire fashion for jacket you must land at a perfect page.

Let me tell you that, wide range of alternatives is available for your search in getting a perfect jacket for men in terms of looks as well as material. This year you will see a lot of new designs in jackets made up of cotton with fancy lining classy pieces and heavy fabrics in corduroy and denims, but the most preferred on for men's are there motorcycle jackets made from leather. Leather Jackets are among the must to have in 2011. A wide range and varieties are available in leather which can be worn in various occasions. Leather jacket has and will be a hottest trend every year. It is coming with more design and trendy looks in men's section this year. The slim fit jackets are the latest trend these seasons as the loose fitting jackets of the previous year.

Range of stylish jackets is available in men's jackets if you browse through the best fashion trends. There are some styles that are all time hit in this category as well as runway fashion has introduced some of the new designs in this category. The latest trend in the jacket is the sleeveless jacket made from lamb skin due to which they are light weight jackets. Apart from that leather bomber jacket is one off those which can make you look a class apart from every one and help you in getting the desired looks. Bomber jacket are one off the top most preferred wear in winter. At a same time the ultimate pickup of these seasons are the biker's jackets.

Buttoned and zippers both are the hot choice this year, with cool patch work round and wide collar will be high in this year. You can also find elegant mandarin collar jackets, ultra stylish high collar jackets and china collar jacket on men leather jacket clothing. These are available in large design and trendy looks, with a perfect fashion statement to all means. Leather jacket with high collar look superb when worn with a perfect pant.

Men's leather jacket will never run out of fashion as it has been there even before the Great War. It's never going to stop acquiring the largest sales in jacket industries and men would not stop wearing it either, that the good thing about leather jacket. Leather has always fascinated women as its one of there first choice. Women look more outstanding in Leather Jackets.

To all the men and women out there who were still in doubt of choosing the right jacket that may really suit them. All you have to do is go to department store then start grabbing a leather jacket if you want to look more seductive and brave. In buying a jacket we should not look too much with price but the something that can make our money worth it.

The Design Process in Fashion Product Development

The development and formulation of a design requires rigorous involvement and in most of the cases follows some or the other process. The process involved should be a course of action that would make reaching the goal very much easier and simpler. Design can be defined to conceive the idea for some artifact or system and/or to express the idea in a form. It would also mean reaching the goals within constraints. Here, the goals consist of the purpose like who is the design for? What is the use of the design etc. The constraints on the other hand are the materials and the platforms to be used. Overall it is a very challenging job to create a design that is aesthetic, creative and innovative at the same time.

If the designer is gifted with artistic talent and creativity then obviously the outcome is highly enhanced. Every individual has his own methodology for approaching the problem but even then a designer or a group of designers develop a specific format which assist them in making their task much simpler. This method can then be worked upon in order to develop and improve it for the best of purposes. Irrespective of the stages in the design process there are certain factors which have to be dealt with before starting the works. Some of these may be:

• Identify the target market - The market that a firm is catering to is segregated on the basis of gender, age, social and economic segment. Here the market is a group of people or the consumers. Each market segment is going to have different requirements and expectations from a design and all of these have to be satisfied by the designer, in order to make it a success.

• Maintaining an Identity for the brand - Every company has a specific look and caters to a particular clientele. The price ranges are also fixed since generally they cater to a specific target market. All this has to remain more or less constant so that the company has a proper brand identity.

The design process in a nutshell and a very basic form may constitute of the following stages. These stages may overlap or may be treated as separate units. The designer only has the prerogative for deciding on these matters.

For starters these stages can be summarized as:

Research & Analysis

Before getting to know the problem and understanding the task, if one simply jumps into it, the only outcome is going to be a disaster. We will not have to look far before we come at a dead end. Proper research and planning is very important before starting a project, however big or small it may seem. The question that might arise here is that how much time should be devoted to this particular stage and the answer to that would be, in a proportional manner. This proportion has to be maintained keeping in mind the various segments that we come across during designing. For example in case of apparel or fashion oriented products research could comprise of an adequate study of the current fashion trends and forecast. Fashion forecast may be customized according to the clients requirement or could be even accessed through existing ones in the market.

Concept

The concept is the most important part of the design process. It is the point from where the ideas are going to start and the basic shape of the design would be conceptualized. The ideas might spring upon a designer at any moment of time. The important thing to keep in mind is that the idea or concept should gel with the market. Any discordance at this stage might put question marks later on. This stage would also require the designer to work upon the mood board, theme board, color palette, trends and the entire outline of the collection.

Form

This is the stage where the actual work on the design starts. The physical structure, shape etc is determined and prototypes are created. The ideas and concepts decided and discussed earlier take form and shape. Thus for the first time we can see how the product is going to look like. The consumers see only the product but the success of the product and the design depends on careful and sincere planning, research and proper production decisions. In case of the fashion industry this is the stage where sampling of the designs is initiated.

Checks and Tests

The Form of the design that is almost ready will never be successful unless we perform various tests which can also be called as quality inspections at various stages of production. The quality checks examine the design from various angles like aesthetics, performance, durability, strength, functionality etc. Only a design that passes these tests and checks will be sent for the final examination; that conducted by the customer or the consumer.

Thus design and designing both comprise of an ideal blend of art, aesthetics, creativity, strategic project management, good research, wonderful analysis and mind blowing execution. After this the designs success is handed over to the retail professionals who pour in their competencies of smart visual merchandising, excellent selling skills, and brilliant advertising and promotions.

Step into the fashion world with cool leather apparels

The 2011 fashion trend has recommended certain new range of leather apparels today. While, such designer clothes may not seem to be in fashion now, but they are surely the latest introduction in the market which has compelled many fashion lovers to love them and follow them. So, to add to the leather fashion fetish, there are leather pants and many other apparels that have become the talk of the town these days. It is a known fact that leather wear has been very common amongst bikers but with change in time the demand for leather apparels have increased in the fashion world even amongst the high street fashion lovers. So, if you wish to own leather apparel then here are some of the factors that you should look for before purchasing apparels made of leather. For starters, you should see for the climatic condition and then pick up the leather apparel that is favorable for that weather condition. For instance, you cannot choose a short leather skirt during winter season. So, choose apparel that may satisfy your interest. So, leather pants are amongst those perfect choice and high on demand apparels. During winters, many people are seen wearing leather pants, because it not only makes one look trendy and cool, but it also keeps the body warm. In leather pants, the street style pant is the most common one amongst females and widely worn during many events and occasions. Apart from leather skirts, it is also skirts that are high on demand amongst women. Leather skirts are today available in different patterns and designs. There are numerous designs and types of leather skirts such as full-length skirts, knee-length skirts, mini-skirts, high-waist skirts and many more. However, apart from leather skirts you can also opt for leather dress that also has the capability to add the glitz and dazzling look to your persona. Hot pants also made of leather are the kind of apparels that can make you look charismatic and attractive. Hot pants have become the latest trend in various parties and who knows it may be seen on street too. If you wish to look sizzling hot, then hot pants when teamed with appropriate tee blends perfectly with it and suits any event very well. Another form of leather apparel that you can choose along with leather skirts or dresses are jackets, leather coats, bomber and many more. So, if you wish to look presentable, sexy at various events and occasions, then choosing any of the above leather apparels are a perfect pick because it helps in creating an ever-lasting impression on men's mind. These leather jackets can do wonders in completing the attire. In fact, you can also carry suitable appurtenances and also certain handbags that can enhance the beauty. So, when you wish to carry the style along with you, it is best to study the latest leather fashion and grab the eye catching apparels.

Bespoke Tailoring : The Luxury & Heritage We Can Afford

This article investigates the conflict between hand crafted bespoke tailoring and computerised mass market tailoring in the UK, in order to assess the overall place for this traditional technique within fashion design. It supports a need for retaining the heritage of traditional skills practiced in bespoke tailoring and justifies this as a luxury the consumer can and should afford. The research emphasises the pedagogic approach to the delivery and understanding of tailoring technology in the fashion design courses at University of Huddersfield. This understanding underpins the student's perception of pattern cutting, fit, sizing, proportion and an overall approach to making clothes. Fashion tutors at Huddersfield believe that when students are taught to appreciate the luxury, heritage and skill of bespoke tailoring, it equips them with the confidence and expertise to create any type of garment.

The luxury of the traditional tailoring process is in the time, craft and experience instilled into each garment. A bespoke tailor is a sculptor whose medium is cloth. He moulds a shell out of this cloth that refines and accentuates the human form. It is a unique service in which the client's individual measurements are applied to the creation of a garment made to their exact size specifications. Particular attention is given to the detail, quality and excellence in the work.

Fashion Stylist, Key to Looking Beautiful

Everyone wants to look their best. Many of us would spend so much money in order for us to feel beautiful. However, there are times when we often spend it on things that are not suitable for us. It is such a waste of money when we actually spend so much on clothes and cosmetics that dont fit or worse that make us look bad. How would it feel like to have someone going shopping with us or someone there telling us all about the latest fad in fashion today? Is it more fun to have someone helping on how to wear those clothes? Well, all these could be made possible with the help of a fashion stylist! One does not need to be a celebrity to have their own stylist. In the world today, it is but normal to have one's very own fashion stylist. For most of us who are fashion conscious and do have the eagerness to look their best everyday then a fashion stylist is the answer to our need. A fashion stylist could be someone who would show the ins and outs of becoming a trendy fashionista. They would be able to help in shopping for clothes that are suitable for ones age, shape of body, skin color and likes. Every season, trend in fashion changes, which is why if we want our wardrobe to compliment, then for sure rendering the service of a fashion stylist can be a very good advantage. He/She will be able to tune our wardrobe on various occasions. The right clothes and accessories for our personality will be chosen all perfectly for us. One would certainly notice someone who has their own fashion stylist because they would stand out in the crowd. They have more confidence and they look highly fashionable. All these could be done without having to spend for those designer label clothes. A fashion stylist would know where to get clothes that look really expensive and yet are inexpensive! Shopping with friends can be really fun as well nevertheless, going out with one's own fashion stylist will help them decide on the right and proper outfits for them. The stylist will tell them honestly how a dress looks on them whereas friends wouldn't tell exactly how one looks like especially if they look bad on it. If we want to make the right decision in finding the perfect clothes for us then again, a fashion stylist could really be the help we need. Furthermore, he/she will be able to guide us now only with the clothes we wear but also on our looks. She would bring us to a good beautician or hairdresser which will enhance our beauty. They would know where to bring us. A fashion stylist eventually is a good money-saver in the long run! A person won't spend anymore for those things that are not suitable for them. Sometimes, one just needs some professional help in order to boost that confidence. Good looks give higher self-esteem. Many times, it is a matter of building up oneself from the outside as well.

Lungi Craze

We all are familiar with the Indian Lungi, I am sure each and every household has this one piece of garment. The drape of this garment is such that it gives the wearer a lot of ease of movement and comfort. It is very open drape and is therefore preferable in hotter regions and that is why it is more worn in hotter regions like south India, Sri Lanka, Burma and even the eastern oriental countries. The Lungi is also known as a sarong. It is a traditional garment and popular in regions where the heat and humidity create an unpleasant climate for trousers. Lungi is generally woven from cotton and is available in many designs, patterns and colors.

Depending on local tradition, lungi can be worn by men and/or women. They are tied or fastened in various ways, and can be used in different cultural activities, ranging from normal daily life to elaborate wedding ceremonies. There are various forms in which a Lungi can be draped, but the simplest form is where the lungi is just draped around the waist and the two ends are tied in a simple knot, however the pretzel knot is considered to be more secure. As the lungi is a draped garment the length of the hemline can be altered by adjusting the tucking at the waistline.

Available in varied prints and self woven designs the Lungi has become so much in vogue that it is considered unisex garment. The most commonly worn are those with checks or the ones in a single dark hue.

For everyday wear, people simply tie a double knot on their lungi as it is least likely to come undone. South Indian traditional garment is the lungi which is termed as the Mundu. The region close to the tropics is severely hot and humid, that is why the garment is worn by most of the folks in the southern region of India, the colour too opted is white to reflect the suns rays. The traditional wedding attire worn by the groom in the south consists of Lungi which is embellished in gold embroidery and is termed as Kasavu.

With the recent craze of the Lungi dance in the much talked about film Chennai Express, the Indian lungi is finding its place on the fashion ramps. Renowned fashion designerWendell Rodricks has used this very Lungi garment in his Ocean Orient Spring Summer 2013 collection for the Wills Lifestyle Fashion Week, thus giving the Lungi a wider craze. The lungi craze has started all over India and fashion designers are trying to revitalize this simple garment and make it more chic. Fashion designers have given this garment a makeover. It is a style statement now.

The Lungi fabric is so simple without any motifs and woven on the simplest of loom. The fabric can be simply plain or the most common one is the striped effect on it which is yarn dyed or printed.

The original lungis were available in pure 100% cotton and varied from 1.75meters to 2.25 meters in length. However with the growing craze of the garment, lungis are available in varied compositions of different natural as well as synthetic fibres. The floral prints in lungis are the most recent in fashion and resemble a sarong and are even worn by men. The patchwork print in this garment with combination of various striped and checkered effect is very much in craze.

In order to maintain the ethnic look of this garment manufacturers are making this garment available in Ikat effect and also tie dyed look. The conversion of the lungi from a traditional humble garment to hi fashioned wear is very interesting. Trendsetters like the bollywood stars, models and fashion designers have created a long journey for this garment in the fashion gallery.

Designers have converted this garment with additional trimmings like an attached belt, or elasticated waistline. One can also see that the lungis nowadays are available with lot of embellishments like ruffles, laces etc. The Kalamkari print lungis have caught up among the younger crowds and look very modern and classy.

Designers are using the same styles of drapes with a touch of their creativity and converting the lungi into styles by altering the hemlines, and giving it a modern touch. Thats Creativity. The lungis are definitely moving from Kanyakumari to Kashmir, but this time in a class of its own.

Top Spring Summer Ladies Fashion Trends for 2014

So as another year draws to a close but what is hot and what is not when it comes to 2014? Well dear friends, the answers are just a heartbeat away! It is that time of year when fashionistas across the globe come together in order to discuss what will make the catwalks of London, Paris, Milan and New York as well as what trends will take centre stage next year. So lets check out the lowdown on the snoops and scoops of what is exactly trending for 2014.  Mod World This particular type of trend is believed to be harking back to the 1960s. This retro style takes advantage of simple designs and shapes, whilst Mod World focuses its attention on two different colour themes. Firstly it is around multi-coloured items as well as a black and white palette. This gives the impression of being both strong and elegant which would go alongside numerous jewellery items including wedding rings. Other key patterns that Mod World brings feature; Geometric design. Cabana stripes. Cropped pants. A-line dresses. Spice Trail  This is considered to be the perfect blend of detailed embroidery which sits beautifully alongside a number of different metallic materials not to mention embellishment. Meanwhile there are also halter dresses as well as pencil skirts which are hot to trot. In addition to this, ladies will have the opportunity to enjoy not just Indian but a wealth of Moroccan and North African influences including; Handwork and plenty of diverse vibrant colours. A wide variety of different materials such as jacquard, lame and sequins. Tribal patterns, prints and numerous dye techniques. Glam grunge appeal Another popular trend that you will see next year is glam grunge. This is a much more modern take on the trends which were set in the 1990s. Meanwhile, there is plenty of soft appearance in the designs, whilst there are several elements which have been bought together with denim playing an important role. Some of the most significant colours that will have an exciting part range from steel blue to several wine shades. On the other hand, you should look out for a wealth of patterns offering; Camouflage. Leopard print. Florals. Plaid Provincial picnic trend This is supposed to be a clean look which is reminiscent of the typical sweetheart look. It is entirely based on nautical themes which incorporate a host of floral patterns not to mention stripes, soft plaids and much more. On the other hand, red is certainly a colour which will be in next year. Vibrant and the symbol of passion it will be one of the most talked about shades come next year. Some of the extra colours that will rate high up the list feature; Banana yellow. Cool minty blue. Cotton voile. Linen white Quirky girly Some fashion lines are bringing together unusual feminine fashion styles which sit perfectly alongside more girly outfits. This includes the likes of cat prints not to mention jackets and socks that take their inspiration from the school playground with plenty of pastel colours to boot. Nonetheless this is definitely going to cause a stir among those fashion conscious females who desire this type of style. Patterns Again, this is an important trend which has come back into ladies fashion and will be apparent in certain forms. From gingham checks and stripes to different types of cherries fruit prints, there is plenty to write home about! Furthermore, you will have the opportunity to enjoy plenty of patterns which take their inspiration from the West including; Toile and A line skirts. Shirtdress. Jumpsuits Ruffled dresses Complete skirt outfits with an eyelet edging. Safari Another iconic collection that is so on trend, Safari will be hot in the next twelve months. It will be the next big street trend which is down to plenty of fashion houses launching their own exclusive collections of jungle type wear. This will no doubt make all the right impressions, so you should look out for; Sharp safari suits. Shorts. Sharp jackets So it seems that dressing to impress is set to be launched in many different forms in 2014. With plenty of unique styles and interesting trends to choose from, there is plenty to look forward to next spring and summer.

History of Women's Fashion & Dress: The Crinoline Period C.1850-1869

Historical Background

The cage crinoline, the major fashion innovation for women in the1850s. During Romantic period, women used to wear Layers of petticoat, sometimes they are use up to six Layers of petticoat. The increasing width of womens skirts had led to the use of more and more stiffened petticoat.

                                     

When the hoop skirts of the 18th century were revived to hold out these voluminous skirts, the editor of Petersons Magazine hailed its revival in September, 1859.This skirts look like a farthingale. But at this time women started wearing farthingale again. The farthingale had changed, its name was called crinoline. This was made out of still. A crinoline is a light still frame work covered with fabric to distend a skirt.

                       

    

2. Day Time Dresses:

Some womans day time costumes are described in below:

Bodice:

Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.

Description: Bodice shaping was often achieved through curved seams in back, darts in front. Armholes were placed low on the arm. It is attached by button or hocks.

Neckline:

Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.

Description: Neck lines were high, without attached collars and usually finished in bias piping. Removable, washable collars (and cuff) were usually worn with daytime dresses.

Sleeves

Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.

Description: Most common sleeve styles they were use such as: bell-shaped, pagoda shaped, double-ruffles, close sleeve, mens coat sleeve etc.

Blouses

Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.

Description: Separate blouses were worn with skirts. The Red Garibaldi Blouse was especially popular in the 1860s.v

Skirts:

Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.

Description: In1860s skirts were pyramid shaped.

Evening Dress: Neckline: Fabric: Different types of fabric are used. Description: Different in dresses worn for evening. In the evening time they also wore daytime dresses. Most evening dresses had off the shoulder neckline, either straight across or with a dip at the center. Sleeve: Fabric: Different types of fabric are used. Description: They use short sleeve, straight sleeve and sleeveless dress. Skirts: Fabric: Different types of fabric are used. Description: Double skirts might have decorative effect created by looping or puffing up the outer layer. Skirts were trimmed with artificial flowers, ribbons, rosettes or lace. Outdoor Garments: Sleeve: Sleeved, fitted and unfitted coats of varying lengths. Mantle: A cloak-like garment worn mainly by women as fashionable outerwear. Three-quarter length coat fitted to waist in front, full at the back, with long loose sleeves. Shawl-mantle: Loose cloak, reaching almost to the skirt hem.

Talma-mantle: Full cloak with tasseled hood or flat collar.

5. Hair and Head Dress:

Hair:

Women generally parted their hair in the center and drew it over the ears smoothly or in waves or plaits back of the head.

Head coverings:

Small muslin "day caps" with long lappets or ribbons which were still worn by some older and married ladies. Hair nets, of colored silk snoods and bonnets, small hats, flat crowns continued to be worn.