Top with Drapery
Reduced drawing patterns -
Sizes 40-52
(Different data for different sizes
consistently shown by a dash)
You will need: Knitted fabric width of 150 cm and a length 0,55-0,55-0,55-0,55-0,60-0,60-0,60 m; adhesive gasket for knitted fabrics.
Details of the cut of the fabric:
1. Before - 1 piece of folded
2. The back - 2 pieces
3. The back straps - 1 piece of folded
4. piping back neckline - 1 piece of folded
Allowances: allowances on hem - 3 cm, all other slices - 1.5 cm.
Gasket: strengthen the seal piping back neckline and straps.
Cutting: expand the pattern pieces on the fabric, folded in half, the edges to the middle, right side facing; the contours of the pattern circle chalk to.
Sewing Technology -
 | Stitch middle seam darts on the back. Depth darts press it to the middle of the back. | |||||
| Unscrew the top of the piping-piece front to the front side and topstitch along sections armholes. | |||||
| Sew straps on longitudinal sections, folding it inside out, unscrew and priutyuzhit slightly stretching along the fold. | |||||
| Unscrew the top of the piping-piece front and armholes allowances on the wrong side. Insert the ends of the straps to the upper angles between allowances. Top defer armholes along the front side of the edge and at a distance of 0.7 cm from it. | |||||
| Sew the piping on the back of the neck to the upper edge, folded them face. Topstitch allowances on the piping. | |||||
| Sew side seams, not grabbing the piping. Sew the piping to the allowance of the middle, side seams, darts depths. | |||||
| Allowance for hem under and topstitch the edge and at a distance of 0.7 cm from it. |
Label to the pattern - | ||
| Sizes 40-52
(Different data for different sizes
consistently shown by a dash) You will need:Knitted fabric width of 150 cm and a length 0,55-0,55-0,55-0,55-0,60-0,60-0,60 m; adhesive gasket for knitted fabrics.Recommendations on the choice of fabric:Elastic fabrics. | |
Women's Sizes
Height 168 cm | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 | |
1 | Chest girth | 80 | 84 | 88 | 92 | 96 | 100 | 104 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 |
2 | Waist Girth | 62 | 66 | 70 | 74 | 78 | 82 | 86 | 92 | 98 | 104 | 110 |
3 | Hip girth | 86 | 90 | 94 | 98 | 102 | 106 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 128 | 134 |
4 | The height of the hips | 19.5 | 20.0 | 20.0 | 20.5 | 20.5 | 21.0 | 21.5 | 21.5 | 22.0 | 22.5 | 23.0 |
5 | Shoulder Width | 12 | 12.2 | 12.4 | 12.6 | 12.8 | 13 | 13.2 | 13.4 | 13.6 | 13.8 | 14 |
6 | Circumference of the neck | 35.0 | 35.5 | 36.5 | 37.0 | 38.0 | 38.5 | 39.0 | 40.0 | 41.0 | 42.0 | 43.0 |
7 | The length of the arm to wrist | 58.5 | 59.0 | 59.0 | 59.5 | 59.5 | 60.0 | 60.5 | 61.0 | 61.5 | 61.5 | 62.0 |
8 | Circumference of the wrist | 15.0 | 15.5 | 15.5 | 16.0 | 16.5 | 16.5 | 17.0 | 17.5 | 18.0 | 18.5 | 19.0 |
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Blouse A La Carmen
Drawing patterns -
Sizes 40-52
(Different data for different sizes
consistently shown by a dash)
You will need: Georgette width of 150 cm and a length 1,15-1,15-1,20-1,20-1,20-1,25-1,25m.
Details of the cut of the fabric:
1. Before - 1 piece of folded
2. The back - 1 piece of folded
3. Sleeve - 2 pieces
4. strips Drawstring neck - 1 piece of folded
5. The plot for Drawstring neck - 4 parts
6. frill sleeves - 2 pieces
7. piping cut forehand - 1 piece of folded
Allowances: allowances on hem - 3 cm, all other slices - 1.5 cm.
Cutting:
expand the pattern pieces on the fabric, folded in half, right side facing; the contours of the pattern circle chalk to.
Printing Options for View32:
40-52 #Horiz 6 #Vert 3 Overlap% 5
Plan layout on the fabric (for p. 52):
Sewing Instructions -
Piping section folded C before the front side, pin on the drawn line cut and pave the lines on three sides marking close to it. Piping and to cut between the lines. Unscrew the piping on the wrong side, the edges of the cut priutyuzhit. Piping tuck to a width of 0.75 cm and tack. Before topstitch along the edges of the cut. Run the side seams and joints bags. Sew short cuts on each sleeve frill. The lower sections of ruffles sleeveless Neaten dense narrow zigzag stitch. Allowance for shear press it to the wrong side, the front side ruffles run along the fold tight zigzag stitch small stitch from the wrong side ruffles carefully cut away excess seam allowance close to the line. Each sleeve is gathered frill on the top edge to the lower edge of the sleeve length. Stitch frills to lower edge of sleeves. Stitch sleeves in open armholes. Allowances stitch seams sleeves together and press them Neaten sleeve on the bottom of the armhole. The cut throat Neaten dense narrow zigzag stitch. The allowance for shear press it to the wrong side, the front side lay along the fold line of small dense zigzag stitch from the wrong side of the neck carefully cut away excess seam allowance close to the line. Drawstring on the strip for the neck press it on the wrong side of the allowances for the longitudinal and short cut. Band to pin blouse from the wrong side on the layout, aligning the ends of the strips with the edges of the cut front. Band topstitch on the markup. Ties purely vytachat to a width of 0.5 cm and a vdet Drawstring neck. Allowance for hem under and topstitch at a distance of 1.5 cm.Label to the Pattern - | ||
| Sizes 40-52
(Different data for different sizes
consistently shown by a dash) You will need:Georgette width of 150 cm and a length 1,15-1,15-1,20-1,20-1,20-1,25-1,25m.Recommendations on the choice of fabric:light, soft fabric draped blouses | |
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How to Draft a Fitted Shirt or Blouse
A fitted shirt or blouse is a classic addition to your wardrobe, and it's relatively easy to draft from your bodice and skirt block.
Unlike the basic blouse, which will have some fullness above the waist when tucked into a waistband, the close fitting blouse will lay smoothly when tucked in.
Or, you can wear the shirt untucked, and it won't look boxy or frumpy.
How closely it fits is a matter of taste and style; you can make your blouse very body conscious, or nip it in just a bit for shape.
The shaped waistline looks great with almost any kind of collar or sleeve you choose.
This page shows you how to create a blouse using your basic bodice and skirt blocks.
And don't forget to finish your blouse with facings, hems, and seam allowances!
Or, you can wear the shirt untucked, and it won't look boxy or frumpy.
How closely it fits is a matter of taste and style; you can make your blouse very body conscious, or nip it in just a bit for shape.
The shaped waistline looks great with almost any kind of collar or sleeve you choose.
This page shows you how to create a blouse using your basic bodice and skirt blocks.
And don't forget to finish your blouse with facings, hems, and seam allowances!
How to Draft the Fitted Shirt Body?
Like the basic blouse, start by laying the front bodice over the front skirt block pattern. The waist darts may not line up (the skirt often has 2, where the bodice has only one) - but don't worry about that.
Trace around the front, neck, and shoulder, following the block pattern.
Start tracing the armhole, but lower the curve at the bottom of the armhole by 1/2" (this allows more freedom of movement in the blouse than in the basic bodice).
Trace the bust dart, then follow the sides, curving in at the waist, to the hip line. The hip line is the bottom of the blouse.
Trace around the front, neck, and shoulder, following the block pattern.
Start tracing the armhole, but lower the curve at the bottom of the armhole by 1/2" (this allows more freedom of movement in the blouse than in the basic bodice).
Trace the bust dart, then follow the sides, curving in at the waist, to the hip line. The hip line is the bottom of the blouse.
Make a waist dart by following the waist dart of the bodice, but do NOT make the dart quite as
wide at the waist as the dart in the bodice block. Although this blouse is fitted, it is not as closely fitted asthe bodice block.
Continue the dart into the lower portion of the blouse. Use the skirt darts as a guide as to the depth of the dart. It is not necessary to follow the skirt darts precisely, as they may not exactly match the bodice dart. The bodice dart is more important in this case than the skirt dart (for placement).
Note: the sketch shows a very closely fitted version of the blouse body; you can make it less fitted by making the side seam less curved, and the waist dart narrower.
wide at the waist as the dart in the bodice block. Although this blouse is fitted, it is not as closely fitted asthe bodice block.
Continue the dart into the lower portion of the blouse. Use the skirt darts as a guide as to the depth of the dart. It is not necessary to follow the skirt darts precisely, as they may not exactly match the bodice dart. The bodice dart is more important in this case than the skirt dart (for placement).
Note: the sketch shows a very closely fitted version of the blouse body; you can make it less fitted by making the side seam less curved, and the waist dart narrower.
Drafting the back shirt pattern is very similar to drafting the front.
Before you start, you can close the back shoulder dart; this will force the waist dart to be wider, but it won't affect the fit of the shirt.
Trace the front, neck, and shoulder as you did the front;lower the armhole 1/2", too.
Draw the side seam exactly the same as the side seam on the front pattern (if you have already cut out your front pattern piece, use that as a guide). It is critically important that the front and back side seams match or the blouse won't hang properly.
Use the hip line as the bottom of the blouse.
Draw the waist dart the same way you did the front waist dart; the back dart generally is much more narrow than the front dart.
Your final pattern will look very similar to the sketch at right.
The bust dart remains for good fit. If you prefer, you could close that dart and widen the waist dart (do this before you trace the side seams, etc.).
Follow the instructions on the basic blouse page for drafting the sleeve; the process is the same for the easy-fit blouse and the fitted shirt.
Before you start, you can close the back shoulder dart; this will force the waist dart to be wider, but it won't affect the fit of the shirt.
Trace the front, neck, and shoulder as you did the front;lower the armhole 1/2", too.
Draw the side seam exactly the same as the side seam on the front pattern (if you have already cut out your front pattern piece, use that as a guide). It is critically important that the front and back side seams match or the blouse won't hang properly.
Use the hip line as the bottom of the blouse.
Draw the waist dart the same way you did the front waist dart; the back dart generally is much more narrow than the front dart.
Your final pattern will look very similar to the sketch at right.
The bust dart remains for good fit. If you prefer, you could close that dart and widen the waist dart (do this before you trace the side seams, etc.).
Follow the instructions on the basic blouse page for drafting the sleeve; the process is the same for the easy-fit blouse and the fitted shirt.
What's the Next Step?
Design the neckline or collar and sleeves that you choose. The blouse can be as simple or as detailed as you'd like.
And don't forget to finish your pattern with seam allowances, hem allowance, facings - or whatever is required of your style.
And don't forget to finish your pattern with seam allowances, hem allowance, facings - or whatever is required of your style.
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Waist and bust darts can look cluttered on a top or dress, and they often look out of date (depending on the style you're looking for).
You can achieve a nicely fitted top or dress without the use of traditional waist and bust darts by converting those darts into a shaped princess seam.
The technique is quite easy; you really just move the placement of the darts and then re-shape the seam a bit - it takes almost no time at all!
You'll start with your basic fitted bodice block and trace it onto paper.
You can use newsprint at this point, because you will be cutting and taping this copy, and then it will be thrown away when you trace your final copy.
DO NOT CUT YOUR ORIGINAL BODICE BLOCK! Trace it onto an inexpensive paper for cutting.
Draw a line from the center of the shoulder to the apex of the bust (the point of the bust dart).
Cut along the drawn line, then close the side bust dart and tape it closed.
This will open the shoulder and create a new dart from the shoulder to the bust. THIS IS CALLED PIVOTING THE DART. It's a simple way to change the position of a dart while maintaining the correct shape and fit over the bust.
At this point, you can draw another line between the points of the shoulder and waist dart and cut them apart (as shown below).
Trace the pieces onto your brown craft paper, freezer paper, or whatever you use for your final pattern. Do NOT use newsprint at this point, as it can stain your fabric. Once you've traced onto your final pattern paper, you can toss the newspaper version.
Once you have separated the center and side front along the dart lines, smooth the lines as needed (the side front, in particular, may have points where the line was cut - smooth those points into a nice graceful line).
REMEMBER: Your bodice block does not have seam allowances or hems. Add your seam allowances, hems, grain-lines and marks to your final pattern.
Place marks at the apex of the bust to guide you when sewing these curves together.
You've made a princess seam!!
Now, you will most likely combine this technique with others to create your final style. For example, to create the top, above, this bodice would be lengthened, using the skirt bodice as a guide to shape the side and ensure fit through the upper hip. (see Making the Blouse Block for how to lengthen the bodice into a blouse or top)
The princess seam can be used for tops and dresses - just combine the bodice and skirt patterns into a dress before drawing the princess line.
And remember: YOUR BLOCK DOES NOT HAVE SEAM OR HEM ALLOWANCES. Once you've patterned your top or dress, add seam allowances, a hem, and markings (grain-lines, matching points, etc).
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How to Create a Princess Seam for Flattering Fit
The Princess seam is one of the easiest methods of dart manipulation, and it results in a smooth, clean line that skims and slims the body.
It adds style to tops and dresses, while maintaining a smooth, body-skimming fit. It really is one of my favorite shaping seams!
Use these style lines to add color-blocking to a dress (make the sides black and the center white or a bright color) - it's a modern, sophisticated take on a conventional sheath.
It adds style to tops and dresses, while maintaining a smooth, body-skimming fit. It really is one of my favorite shaping seams!
Use these style lines to add color-blocking to a dress (make the sides black and the center white or a bright color) - it's a modern, sophisticated take on a conventional sheath.
Waist and bust darts can look cluttered on a top or dress, and they often look out of date (depending on the style you're looking for).
You can achieve a nicely fitted top or dress without the use of traditional waist and bust darts by converting those darts into a shaped princess seam.
The technique is quite easy; you really just move the placement of the darts and then re-shape the seam a bit - it takes almost no time at all!
You'll start with your basic fitted bodice block and trace it onto paper.
You can use newsprint at this point, because you will be cutting and taping this copy, and then it will be thrown away when you trace your final copy.
DO NOT CUT YOUR ORIGINAL BODICE BLOCK! Trace it onto an inexpensive paper for cutting.
Draw a line from the center of the shoulder to the apex of the bust (the point of the bust dart).
Cut along the drawn line, then close the side bust dart and tape it closed.
This will open the shoulder and create a new dart from the shoulder to the bust. THIS IS CALLED PIVOTING THE DART. It's a simple way to change the position of a dart while maintaining the correct shape and fit over the bust.
At this point, you can draw another line between the points of the shoulder and waist dart and cut them apart (as shown below).
Trace the pieces onto your brown craft paper, freezer paper, or whatever you use for your final pattern. Do NOT use newsprint at this point, as it can stain your fabric. Once you've traced onto your final pattern paper, you can toss the newspaper version.
Once you have separated the center and side front along the dart lines, smooth the lines as needed (the side front, in particular, may have points where the line was cut - smooth those points into a nice graceful line).
REMEMBER: Your bodice block does not have seam allowances or hems. Add your seam allowances, hems, grain-lines and marks to your final pattern.
Place marks at the apex of the bust to guide you when sewing these curves together.
You've made a princess seam!!
Now, you will most likely combine this technique with others to create your final style. For example, to create the top, above, this bodice would be lengthened, using the skirt bodice as a guide to shape the side and ensure fit through the upper hip. (see Making the Blouse Block for how to lengthen the bodice into a blouse or top)
The princess seam can be used for tops and dresses - just combine the bodice and skirt patterns into a dress before drawing the princess line.
And remember: YOUR BLOCK DOES NOT HAVE SEAM OR HEM ALLOWANCES. Once you've patterned your top or dress, add seam allowances, a hem, and markings (grain-lines, matching points, etc).
How to Draft a Tunic Top
A tunic is super easy to wear, and it hides a multitude of "sins"! It will make you look long and lean hide wide hips or a big belly, and looks great with skinny pants, jeans, or a shorter skirt.
The tunic is basically a longer version of a blouse or top, often a pull-over-the-head style.
Vents at the hem allow easy movement (the hem can be too restricting without them, so I highly recommend simple vents).
You can cinch the waist with a belt if you like, or just wear it straight.
And it's so easy to draft!
You'll be using your basic blouse block for this pattern.
And don't forget to finish your pattern! Add seam allowances, hems, and facings when you're done!
How to Draft the Tunic?
A tunic is generally 4 - 6” longer than the blouse(which ends at the hip).
Add about 1” at each side seam, at the hem, and taper to meet the armhole of the blouse block.
There is no need to add to the bust or shoulders. A natural fit, with a bust dart, will be most flattering.
You can also "hide" the bust dart with a yoke seam across the front.
Add about 1” at each side seam, at the hem, and taper to meet the armhole of the blouse block.
There is no need to add to the bust or shoulders. A natural fit, with a bust dart, will be most flattering.
You can also "hide" the bust dart with a yoke seam across the front.
A vent at each side seam, at the hem, will also allow for ease of movement.
Place a notch approximately 6” above the hemline to mark the length of the vent opening.
Make sure that the slight flare at the sides is the same front and back (the total width of the pattern may not be the same, but the angle and length of the side seams should match).
Place a notch approximately 6” above the hemline to mark the length of the vent opening.
Make sure that the slight flare at the sides is the same front and back (the total width of the pattern may not be the same, but the angle and length of the side seams should match).
What's the Next Step?
Now,
design the neckline or collar and sleeves as you choose. The sketch at
the top of this page has a simple notched neckline and the bell sleeves.
And don't forget to finish your pattern with seam allowances, facings - or whatever is required of your style.
And don't forget to finish your pattern with seam allowances, facings - or whatever is required of your style.
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How to Create a Shoulder Yoke
Add Style Detail and Maintain Fit With a Yoke Seam
A shoulder yoke is more than just a style detail - it's also a way of "hiding" a bust dart! You can add style to your dress or top without a side dart, and still maintain good fit.
Please note: The following directions assume you will be using your personal block to create a full-size pattern. If you are practicing pattern drafting techniques or are experimenting with pattern design, I strongly recommend you print and use our quarter scale patterns.
This simple tunic uses a yoke seam to add styling detail while maintaining the fit at the bust.
The side bust dart is pivoted to the armhole, and then the top of the bodice is separated from the lower portion to create the seam.
We won't go into any of the other details of this tunic on this page, but we will cover, step-by-step, the method of manipulating a dart into a yoke seam.
Start with your basic bodice block (in this case, you can also start with your torso/blouse block - the technique for moving the bust dart is the same).
Trace your bodice or blouse block onto an inexpensive paper like newspaper. This will NOT be your final pattern, so in this case, newsprint is fine. You'll cut this copy up and throw it away when you've completed your final pattern.
DO NOT MARK OR CUT THE BLOCK PATTERN. Make a copy first, and mark and cut the copy.
First, draw a line from the armhole to the point of the bust dart.
Cut along the new line, then close the side bust dart. (Tape it closed)
This will force the armhole dart to open. This is called pivoting the dart, and is used any time you simply want to change the position of a dart.
This gives you the basis for your yoke seam. You can now draw a line along the bust line to complete the yoke shape.
Following the lines of the darts, draw a curve that is pleasing. It doesn't have to follow the darts exactly, but it should be close.
When you cut along the new yoke seam, your lines should be nice and smooth - smooth the points of the darts when drawing your new seam line.
The wider opening at the armhole is your dart. When you sew the yoke seam, you'll still have shape over the bust because you still have the dart shape in your pattern.
Trace these pieces onto your brown craft paper, freezer paper, or whatever you use for your final pattern. You can then toss the newspaper pattern.
It helps to add a few marks along the yoke seam to aid in matching the curve as you sew the seam, but it's not necessary.
In the illustration above, I simply drew a straight bottom without a waist dart (this is also what you'd see if you used the blouse block). You can keep the waist dart if it's needed for the style you're designing, but the tunic shown here would eliminate that dart altogether, and, of course, the top would be much longer.
REMEMBER: Your bodice or blouse block does NOT have seam allowances. After you've made your final pattern (including the proper length and shape of the top or dress), add seam allowances, hems, grain-lines, and any other markings you find useful.
Yoke seams can be added to any top or dress. Using the bust dart to create the yoke seam maintains a smooth fit over the bust.
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