How to make a beautifully draped bat-wing tunic

How to make a beautifully draped bat-wing tunic

This draped bat-wing tunic is very easy to make and a perfect project for the weekend. It only took me a couple of hours from sketch to finish and you don’t need any sewing pattern to make this.

When you choose your fabric choose blouse fabrics with a drape, light cottons, like batiste, silk, georgette, etc, but nothing too boxy, unless that is the look you are going for.

First, take a tank top that fits you well but it not too stretchy. You want tank top and not a t-shirt because it will be easier to see where the armhole sits on your pattern. You can use paper if you feel more comfortable, but I just pinned the tank top over the fabric and cut my blouse pattern on the fabric folded in four, keeping the folded sides at the top and at the left of the fabric.

I folded the tank top once, then snipped of the shape of the neck area and created a bat-like wing, cutting the sleeves and that V. The longer your V, the more your blouse will drape. You can play with this shape and create many other blouses or dresses.

The second things I sewed were the neckline and the arm-holes, then I sewed the V’s, making sure I sandwiched inside the ties for wrapping the batwings on the finished piece.

And that’s it! Easy ! I’d love to see your end result if you decide to make this top.

And don’t thing this is a summer-only piece, you can even take this blouse into autumn by wearing a long-sleeved t-shirt underneath or even a body-con dress.

5 Vintage Necklines and Collars Ideas

5 Vintage Necklines and Collars Ideas

One of the reasons why I like vintage sewing books is how practical and down to earth they are. Many go over women’s fashion and expect seamstresses to be able to apply the learned concepts to make garments for kids and men.

The purpose of learning dressmaking is to be able to fill the needs and wants of all members of the family, garment making shouldn’t take too much time, yet the clothes should enhance the personality of the wearer and last a long time.

I am curious whether you agree with me or not on this one, but I think that one of the details of a garment where personality and taste are most obvious is the neckline.

It can change a dress or blouse completely.

Maybe you remember one of my posts, in which I was sketching various vintage necklines; today I’m listing a few other vintage necklines ideas.

The sailor bow tie look good both in patterned fabric, like in the image below and in a sparkly white with dark blue piping. This one closes in the back with snaps, but you could move the bow to the back and close the blouse with it.

The square neckline is safe and sweet. Keep the straps quite fat like this dress, or slim them down for a more delicate look.

If you like the look of a handkerchief worn over a shirt, you’ll like this small collar on a dress. I like the contrast fabric also.

I love this faux wrap neckline and how simple the whole look is. I also like how this blouse in particular fits the model quite loosely.

And last but not least, a sweetheart neckline, this time adorned with a zipper. I quite like the contrast between the sweetness of the neckline shape and the metal of the zipper.

What about you? What’s you favorite vintage or modern neckline?

MITERING

Mitering is the process of seaming or folding a surface diagonally for sharper professional finish. This is a neat way of finishing a corner or  gusset end and is less bulky, especially on heavier fabrics.

 

 

Mitering a Corner

 

1. Fold up a single or a double turn, mark with a pin where the top fold will come, and press.
2. Fold in the side turn, mark with a pin where the inside fold will come, and press.
3. Open out the turns.
4. Fold in the corner triangle to the pins. Press along the fold. Trim excess fabric to a narrow seam allowance.
5. Turn up a single or a double turn at the lower edge.
6. Turn in the side turn.
7. Slip-stitch across the corner.

 

Mitering a Gusset End

1. With face side together, layer body panels  aligning edges and stitch up side seams. Press seam open.
2. Mark with a pin where the gusset end fold will come on front and back panels.
3. Fold in the side turn at the pins, where the gusset fold will come.
4. Fold in the corner triangle to the pins. Press along the fold.
5. Stitch across side seam from pin to pin.
6. Trim excess fabric to a narrow seam allowance.

BIAS CUTTING

Bias is the diagonal surface direction that occurs at a 45-degree angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grains of woven fabrics.  The fabric has the highest degree of stretch of any woven direction when it is cut on bias.

 

 

Binding and Piping Instructions

Binding is a way of neatening a raw edge using a separate length of fabric, usually in a contrasting color or material. Binding can be used as a Hong Kong finish.

Piping is a way to emphasize a seam or edge and can add strength to corners that might receive a lot of wear.

For both binding and piping, strips of fabric cut on the bias are used as this makes them slightly stretchy.

Instructions on Cutting Bias Strips

To cut bias strips fold the fabric diagonally (45°) so that a straight cut edge is parallel to the selvedge (the side of the fabric).

Gently press this fold and use this crease as a guide to mark parallel lines for bias strips.

To join bias strips place two lengths, right sides together, right angles to each other and stitch.

Open out, press seam open and trim off the overlapping edges.

Instructions on Binding an Edge

 

Cut bias strips 4 times the finished width of the binding required. Fold both raw edges to the centre on the back, down the length of the bias strips and press. (see Bias Tape Maker below). Open up one side of the binding. Place this side of the binding onto the right side of the fabric with raw edges matching and pin. Stitch along the fold line of the binding. Fold the binding over the raw edge to the wrong side of the fabric. Pin and baste the fold of the binding over the line of machine-stitching on the wrong side.

From the right side of the trimmed edge, stitch-in-the-ditch where the bias joins the fabric. This stitching will sink into the “ditch” between the two fabrics. It catches the bias that has been folded under on the wrong side and holds it secure. Alternatively, you can slip stitch the turned bias edge to the underside on the wrong side of the shell fabric.

Instructions on Piping

Piping can be made by covering cord with strips of bias cut fabric. The cord comes in a range of thicknesses and is readily available from fabric and upholstery stores.

 

Cut and join enough bias strips for the required length and wide enough to cover the cord plus the seam allowance.

Lay the cord in the centre, on the wrong side of the bias strip.

Fold the bias strip over the cord matching the raw edges.

Stitch the open edges of the bias strip together along the length. Use a zipper foot or cording foot on the sewing machine to ensure that the stitches are close to the cord.

To attach the piping cord to a straight edge, pin it to the right side of the main fabric matching the raw edges.

To turn a corner, clip the seam allowance on the piping cord up to the line of stitches. Ease the piping cord around the corner and proceed pinning it along the next edge.

To attach piping cord to an outside curve, place it onto the right side of the main fabric matching the raw edges. Pin it in place, clipping the seam allowance to ensure that the fabric lays flat.

To attach piping cord to an inside curve, work in the same way as an outside curve allowing the seam allowance to overlap where it is clipped.

Instructions on Bound Seams  (Hong Kong Finish)

This is one of my favourite seam finishes for unlined bags. This finish is used in couture, but don’t let that intimidate you. It is not hard to do and will make your finished work look professional, knowing that it looks as good on the inside as it does on the outside.
With this seam finish, each raw edge is enclosed in a bias strip of lightweight fabric. Use lining fabric, such as rayon or polyester lining, or use lightweight silk if you have it on hand. Be sure to pre-shrink this fabric before using it. You can even use printed georgette to give a pretty finish to your seams. Either match the binding strips to the shell fabric or go for a contrast that will be dramatic.

Cut strips of your lining fabric approximately 1 1/2″ wide. Cut these on the true bias. The bias grain helps with turning the edges over ripple free and it will not fray.

Sew the seam of your bag. Before pressing the seam open, lay the bias strip right side down on the edge of the seam. Sew it to the seam allowance only with a narrow seam allowance. (I like to use the edge of my presser foot as a guide). The resulting finish will be narrow and look almost like flat piping.

Press the bias strip away from the seam, i.e. press it over on itself.

Then wrap it around the fabric seam allowance to the wrong side of the seam.

Stitch-in-the-ditch from the face side. This means stitch right along the edge where the bias joins the fabric. This stitching will sink into the “ditch” between the two fabrics. It catches the bias that has been folded under on the wrong side and holds it secure.

Carefully trim away the excess lining fabric on the wrong side. Slide your scissors between the bias and the fabric, holding them sideways against the fabric. Trim as close to the stitching as you can. Because the lining strip was cut on the bias, it will not fray.

Press the bound finish nice and flat. Press your bag seams open.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING A BIAS TAPE MAKER

This tool is handy for making your own bias folded tape and is available in 1/4″, 1/2″ , 1″ and 2″ sizes.

Note: Some heavier fabrics may not keep their press. 

 

At straight grain edge of fabric, fold corner down so cross wise grain meets lengthwise grain to form a triangle. Fold, mark and cut bias edge (45 degree).

Using a ruler, mark additional cutting lines 2.5cm (1″) from bias edge making as many strips as needed

(the strips widths will differ based upon the finished width of the bias maker you use).

Join ends of bias strips with face sides together. Sew a scant 6mm (1/4″) seam, trim ends and press open.

Feed bias strip into wide end of bias maker (fabric is face side down). Pin end of bias tape to ironing board. Pull tape maker and press bias tape as it comes through the narrow opening.

STITCHES

 

Basic hand stitches and decorative stitching “how-to”s.

Back Stitch – Use a short needle. It is the strongest hand stitch and is used to imitate machine stitches. Work backstitch from right to left.

1. Begin with a knotted length of thread (1), and then take a stitch and a space (2).

2. Take the needle back over the space and bring it out the same distance in front of the thread(3).

3. Continue to the end of the seam.

4. Fasten off with a couple of stitches on the spot.

Basting Stitch – A temporary method of holding two or more layers of fabric together, by sewing by hand or machine with long stitches, while it is being permanently stitched. Similar to running stitch but with longer stitches. Also known as tacking.

1. Work with single or double thread, knotted at the end (1), and make evenly spaced stitches by taking the needle in (3) and out (2) of the fabric .

2. End a line of tacking with 1 backstitch or a knot.

3. To release the tacking stitches, cut off the knot and pull out the thread.

Catch Stitch – see herringbone stitch.

Herringbone Stitch – This hand stitch keeps layers of fabric flat against one another, such as a facing or seam allowances. Use it on lined projects because the lining covers and protects the surface threads, which tend to catch on things. You can vary the stitch length as desired. I recommend making stitches 3/8 to 1/2- inch apart. Also known as a catch stitch.

1. Thread your needle; insert your needle to the wrong side of your top layer (1).
2. Working from left to right while pointing your needle to the left, place a small stitch in the foundation fabric in a diagonal direction about 1/4 inch to the right near the edge (3).
3. Place the next stitch 1/4 inch to the right on the top layer and make your stitches form the letter “X”. (5)
4. Continue repeating this zig-zag pattern, alternating from foundation to top layer, keeping an even space between stitches and keeping the stitches loose.

Ladder Stitch – This stitch is used to join two fabric-covered edges invisibly. When the thread is tightened, the stitches should be virtually invisible and the turnings enclosed to the inside.  It’s much easier to work this stitch with a fine curved needle and butt both folded edges together.

1. Work from face side of fabric with a single thread fastened with a knot hidden inside the fold. (1)

2. Bring the needle out through the folded edge (2), straddle the seam and insert needle directly opposite your last position(3).

3. Slide the needle along, (4) come out of the fold to make  the next stitch on the opposite side (5).

4. Repeat “rung” stitch pattern 3 or 4 times, then draw up on thread tension to roll up and close the seam. Keep stitches small and even.

Running Stitch – use a long, slim needle. Use for seaming, gathering,  tucking,  mending, quilting and many kinds of delicate work.

1. Fasten the thread with a few backstitches (1) and work small stitches by passing the needle in (3) and out (2) of the fabric. Weave point of needle in  (5) and out (4) of fabric several times before pulling thread through. Keep the stitches and spaces as even as possible.

Slip Stitch – for invisibility rather than strength. This stitch is used for holding a turned edge, such as a facing or a fold, to a flat piece of fabric.

1. Work from right to left with a single thread fastened with a knot hidden inside the fold (1).

2. Bring the needle out through the folded edge (2), pick up a few threads of the flat fabric (3) and then return to exit point on folded edge; work through the fold again.

3. Slide the needle along, come out of the fold to make repeat the next stitch. Keep stitches small and even.

Saddle Stitch – The saddle stitch is a very strong stitch because if a part of the thread were to fray due to wear and tear, the rest of the thread will never unravel and become undone. It is a spaced running stitch in contrasting or heavy thread, used mainly for decoration, usually along an edge.

Stitching with 2 needles:

1. Take one very long piece of the waxed heavy-duty thread off of the spool and cut it. Next, thread each end of the thread through each of the needles. You should have a needle on each end of one piece of thread. The waxed thread will have sort of a tacky feel to it, so instead of tying a traditional knot, thread the needle and bring the end back alongside the rest of the thread. With the end folded back along the rest of the thread, twist them together between your thumb and forefinger. The waxy texture will temporarily adhere itself together until you are finished with your project. Do this to both ends.

2. On your leather, you should have holes pre-marked where your seam will be so you can sew with ease. If your holes have not punched the whole way through, simply push through the designated needle hole with an awl so you don’t have to risk breaking or bending your needles if you were to try to force it through the material. Take your thread and thread one needle through the hole. Pull the thread through the hole until there is an equal length of thread on each side of the seam.

3. Take either of the needles and thread it through the next hole on the same side of the seam. On the other side of the seam, take the other needle and thread it back through the same hole that the first needle came through. The needles should have “switched” sides at this point, and you have just completed the first saddle stitch. Repeat this process until your project is complete.

Under Stitch – The stitching, used on enclosed seams, that attaches the seam to the facing and prevents the seam from rolling to the front side.

1. Thread your needle, using the thread and fasten with a knot on the end (1); fasten the thread on the underside of the fabric and push the needle through (2). Start from face side of your fabric and work parallel along the seam.

2. Take a stitch and a space (3-4), as you would for a back stitch.

3. Insert the needle back through the fabric, a thread or two behind the area where it first came through (5). Work from left to right with your thread and needle.

4. Push the needle through again about ¼-inch ahead of the first stitch (6). Keep working from right to left. Continue along the length of the fabric while keeping the stitches even.

5. When you reach the end of your fabric, fasten a knot with the needle and thread. If you are sewing the understitch correctly, you will see a neat row of stitches that look like an even line of dots along your seamline.

Whip Stitch –  is a way to neaten the raw edge of bulky fabrics or to prevent lightweight fabrics from fraying. Relate the length of the stitch to the fabric and how badly it will fray. Also known as overcasting.

1. Begin with a few backstitches (1).

2. Make diagonal stitches over the raw edge, spacing them equally and make them all the same length (2-3). Be careful not to pull the stitches too tight.

SEAMS

Flat Seam Construction
A simple way of joining 2 pieces of fabric together with a single row of stitches.

1. Place the fabric pieces, right sides together, matching the raw edges.
2. Pin, baste, and stitch, 0.5″ (12 mm) in from the raw edges.
3. Work a few stitches in reverse at each end to secure.
4. Press the seam allowance open.

French Seam (1) Construction
A self-neatening enclosed seam that is usually used to join sheer fabrics where no stitches show on the right side.

1. With wrong sides together, edges matching, tack and stitch the fabric, taking a 0.25″ (6 mm) seam allowance.
2. Trim the seam allowance to half its size.
3. Refold the fabric with right sides together, to enclose the raw edges. Press edge.
4. Pin and stitch a second seam just big enough to cover the raw edges.

French Seaming (2) Construction

This is not the same technique as used in clothing construction (see above). The method involves making seams by inserting a stiffening, turning and gluing the machined seam down tight. A variety of shapes and thicknesses of stiffeners can be used to create a number of silhouettes. French seams are often used on pieced bags with side gussets, panelled fronts and separate bottoms. It can be made on all round gussets so that seams appear on the front or on front panels to form side-gusset styling. Only the material turned in against the stiffening is glued but as the gusset is machined to it, the edges must meet exactly. If the material does not glue well, a piece of fabric (about 1″ wide) may be caught in machine stitching, on the gusset side strained over and stuck down to the material used.

Gathering
Gathering is used to add frills. A frill before it is gathered needs to be at least 1.5 times it’s finished length, but making it twice as long gives a much better effect.
When gathering on a sewing machine, use a  heavy-duty thread as the “draw core” for extra strength and couch a zig-zag stitch over the thick thread, along the seam allowance next to the stitching line. Draw up the heavy-duty thread as needed to gather.

 

Instead of machine stitches, a small running stitch can be used especially when a short length is to be gathered. It may take longer but there is a finer row of gathering.

1. Work a row of zigzag stitches, 0.25″ (6 mm) from the seam line and over the thicker thread.
2. Gently draw up the heavy-duty thread from one end feeding the fabric evenly down the gathers.
3. Tie off the thread ends when the required gathered length is achieved.

Flat Fell Seam Construction

This type of seam is popular in reversible  and unlined handbags. It produces a clean inside for the bag and strong seaming with its double stitching. It works best with straight seams that have very few curves.

1) Place wrong sides of fabric together and straight stitch 3/4-inch from raw edge.
2) Press seam allowances to one side.
3) Trim the seam allowance that lays underneath to 1/8 of an inch.
4) Turn under the top seam by 1/4-inch, concealing the trimmed under-seam. Pin in place.
5) Edge-stitch along fold using zipper foot.